This weeks block is from Jo Morton and it has Flying Geese in it...I am having way too much fun making Flying Geese units right now. Do you remember that old commercial for potato chips with the tagline, "Bet you can't eat just one?" Well, I am finding it hard to make just one of these blocks and once you give it a try you may feel the same. There are so many looks you can get just by changing the fabric placement and if you have been looking at all of the lovely blocks being shared on Facebook you know just what I mean.
You can find the pattern HERE.
I am going to use the No Waste method for making the Flying Geese units again. That means I changed the cutting directions for A and B.
A-2 1/8" x 2 1/8" (cut 8)
B- 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" (cut 2)
Since I am making two different colors of Flying Geese I cut one B from each fabric choice.
We should be getting pretty good at this now...place two A squares on opposite corners of the B square and draw a diagonal line through both.
Sew 1/4 inch from each side of the drawn line. I find it helps to have that point on the top A square facing towards me as I feed it though my machine.
Cut apart on the line and press towards the triangles.
I draw the diagonal line on the remaining A squares before placing them on the unit just made.
Just like before, sew 1/4 inch from each side of the drawn line. Again, I like to sew with the unit in this direction so that everything stays nice and flat. Cut apart on the drawn line and press towards the triangles. Voilà! Four little Flying Geese made.
We need to trim these to 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" I am using one of my Bloc Loc rulers, but will demonstrate with a regular ruler as well.
If you are using a regular ruler line up the 1 1/4 inch mark with the point of the "Goose" making sure that you have 1/4 inch extending beyond. Place your 1 1/2 inch mark along the diagonal seam on the right and 2 1/2 inch mark on the left. Trim the side and top.
Rotate the unit and once again place the 1 1/4 inch mark at the point of the "Goose" and the 1 1/2" line of your ruler should run along the edge we just trimmed. Line up the diagonal of the ruler with the seam on the right, and the 2 1/2" line should fall right on the other edge we you just trimmed. Trim the last two sides.
Now lay out all of the lovely geese in pairs and sew them together.
There is going to be some bulk when you go over this seam so go slow. A stilleto can help to guide it through as you attempt to have your needle land right on the center of the X made by the seams of the flying geese. (see next photo)
I tried to zoom in to show how X marks the spot you want to hit with your needle. If you land to the left of the stitches you will lose your sharp point.
All my geese are in a row and waiting for me to make the Square in a Square unit for the center.
I did not make any changes to Jo Morton's cutting directions for the C and D blocks. She is making this unit the same way I would have chosen. Start by drawing diagonal lines on all four C squares. Place one C square on the D square.
This time we will sew along the diagonal line. I have found it is best to place your needle just to the right of the drawn line rather than landing on top of it.
Before cutting away the extra, check to see that the triangle covers the square underneath. You may find that you need to move your needle a little more to the right as you sew if any of the D square extends beyond the little corner triangle. Place the 1/4 inch mark of your ruler on the seam and trim away the excess. (Be sure to leave a 1/4" seam allowance.)
Now repeat the process with the next C square on the opposite corner.
After you have added all four C squares make sure the unit still measures 2 1/2" x 2 1/2"
Time to lay out all of the pieces. This will give us a nine patch block, so all we need to do is first join the units to make three rows. There will be some bulky seams so take your time. The center row will have the points of the triangles to watch out for-just go slow and aim for the X.
Next we need to sew the rows together. I pressed the top and bottom rows towards the D squares and found the center row did best if I pressed it open. This allowed me to match the seams well when joining the rows. I did place a pin at the seams to hold them in place.
I am really pleased with the bees that are buzzing in my Garden Notes blocks.
Click here for a pdf version.
Thank you for all of the kind words you have shared about how much these tutorials have helped you to have success in piecing your blocks. Thank you too for the questions you ask along the way. I am enjoying getting to know you!
Until next time...
It's Betsy Chutchian's turn this week and she brings us Block 20-Devil's Claw. Betsy posted a photo of the plant on her blog and also gives us lots of options for putting this block together. You can read her post HERE.
I decided to make flying geese units using two different methods and a quick hourglass method that I like. You end up with two hourglass units, but I will use the extra one in another block. Of course that means I have different pieces to cut so here is my list.
From Light Fabric:
A (cut 1)- 4 3/4" x 4 3/4"
C (cut 4)- 2 5/8" x 2 5/8"
E (cut 2)- 2 1/4" x 3 3/4"
From Dark Fabric:
B (cut 1)- 4 3/4" x 4 3/4"
D (cut 1)- 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
F (cut 4)- 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
I am going to start with the A and B (4 3/4" x 4 3/4") squares; draw a diagonal line through the A square and lay them right sides together.
Now I just stitch 1/4 inch from each side of the line.
Cut on the line and press both units towards the dark side.
Lay one of the Half-square triangles on top of the other, with dark sides opposing each other. The seams will nest together now. It is a good idea to check and make sure you can see the hourglass before actually sewing.
Draw a diagonal line down the middle.
Sew 1/4" from each side of the drawn line.
I like to have the seam pointing away from the needle as I sew.
Just like before, cut apart on the line and press open.
I am only going to trim one of these Hourglass units since that is all I need for this block.
To do that I place the 1 3/4 inch mark on my ruler at the middle intersection and make sure the diagonal line on my ruler follows the seam.
(1 3/4" is half of the trimmed size of the block which is 3 1/2")
I want this block to measure 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" so again, I place the 1 3/4" mark in the center-
the 3 1/2" lines are on the edges I have already trimmed, and the diagonal line is sitting nicely on the seam line-all is good for a final trim.
Setting the Hourglass unit aside I move on to the No-waste method to make four Flying Geese units just like I did for Block 19. First lay two of the C squares onto the right side of the D square and draw a diagonal line through them both.
Sew 1/4 inch from each side of the liine.
Cut apart on the line and press towards the C triangles.
Draw a diagonal line on the remaining C triangles and place one on each unit as pictured.
Sew 1/4 inch from each side of the line.
Cut apart on the line and trim to 2 x 3 1/2 inches.
I am using a Bloc Loc ruler, for directions on how to trim using a regular ruler read over my directions for Block 19 by clicking HERE.
For our block we need to sew two Flying Geese units together.
Here they are complete along with the Hourglass unit.
Since I only need two more Flying Geese I decided to show you another easy method for making individual geese using my E and F pieces.
Start by drawing a diagonal line on all of the F squares.
Place an F square on top of an E rectangle; being careful with the direction of the diagonal line.
Sew right along that line, I am a needle width to the outside of the line.
Before trimming, I always check to make sure that the triangle piece covers up the rectangle underneath.
Trim leaving 1/4" for the seam and press towards the dark side.
If you are making any of Betsy's minis, these leftover triangles are perfect.
Place another F square on the other side of the rectangle, again making sure that the diagonal line is going in the correct direction and sew as before with the needle just to the outside.
These get trimmed just like the other Flying Geese units and are then ready to be added to each side of the Hourglass unit. For this block it is important to make sure the Hourglass is facing the correct way-with the light colored fabric on top and bottom.
I pressed these towards the Hourglass unit.
The final step is to add the Flying Geese units we made earlier to the top and bottom of the Block. I decided to press these final seams open as it just seemed like less bulk.
And here is Block 20 with the other blocks I have completed so far.
Some exciting news for me is the completion of my first pattern- a little Mug Rug that is perfect for beginners. To celebrate I am giving away one kit with the fabrics I used in my sample. So hop on over to my Facebook page and enter for your chance to win. Just go to the post about the Mug Rug and in the comments tell me what your favorite summer flower is. The winner will be selected by a random number generator and announced on Monday July 24th.
Until next time...
A few months ago I was approached about writing quilting tutorials for the National Quilters Circle. To celebrate my very first pattern designed for that purpose I am going to give away one kit for my Purple Coneflower Mug Rug. This was a pattern designed with beginners in mind and my complete tutorial can be found on the National Quilters Circle website.
The free pattern and a limited number of kits made up of the same fabrics I used in my sample can be found on the My Patterns page.
To enter for your chance to win the kit you need to go to my Facebook Page and tell me what your favorite summer flower is.
A winner will be picked at random and announced on Monday July 24th.
Lynne Hagmeier of Kansas Troubles Quilters has this week's block. She has provided directions for both her Layered Patchwork version which I have yet to try, and the Traditional Patchwork method. The pattern can be found by clicking HERE. It was fun to visit the designer blogs this week and see how they display their quilts in their homes. Lots of great inspiration so if you have not taken the time to do so I would encourage you to visit their online homes this week.
I decided with a name like Night Flight I would use the blue fabric in my collection to be the sky and lighter fabrics for my geese. We live in area that has geese by the million spend the winter so I had visions of Snow Geese against a blue sky as I prepared my fabric.
Me being me, I did not use either of the methods Lynne shared but when to my favorite No Waste method-a bit of a misleading name as I tend to cut my pieces large and trim them down. If you want more variety in your geese you will want to use a different method or just know that you will have extra geese flying around for another quilt-which would not be bad at all either.
I love this method for how quickly the geese go together.
Cutting Directions for No Waste Flying Geese:
Fabric A (Geese)- 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" (cut 2)
Fabric B (Sky)-2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares (cut 8)
First place two of the B squares on top of each A square as shown in the photo below then draw a diagonal line through the B squares.
Just like with the Half-square triangles we did last time; I sew 1/4 inch from each side of my diagonal line. A little tip here: sew with the point of the top B square pointing towards you-not a big deal if you forget, but everything lies so much nicer for sewing this way. (Like I did in the photo on the left)
Cut the units apart on the diagonal line.
Press towards the smaller triangles.
Now place another B square on top of the unit just made.
I like to draw my diagonal line on it before I place it.
As I lined them up to sew they looked like little jets in formation. As many times as I have made these I have never seem them as fighter jets before...maybe the fact that the jet fighters are flying over the house as they do their training exercises has influenced me this morning, lol.
At any rate my geese currently look more like loud and raucous airplanes to me.
Just like before we will sew 1/4 inch from each side of the line.
Now for the fun part-the big reveal. Cut apart on the line and press towards the little triangle. Each A square yields 4 Flying Geese!
I am going to show two ways of trimming these units. One using the Bloc-Loc ruler which is my absolute favorite for trimming Flying Geese units. I will also show how to trim using a regular ruler. I happened to have the perfect size Bloc-Loc for these Flying Geese which finish at 1 1/2" x 3". Bloc-Loc rulers have an indentation in them that "locks" onto the seam making it quite easy to trim to the correct size and the 1/4 inch seam allowance is built into it for a trimmed size of 2 x 3 1/2 inches.
With the Bloc-Loc just slide the indentation into place and trim the first two sides. Then rotate and trim the next two sides and you are done.
With the regular ruler you have to pay attention to a few details.
We want to trim these to 2 x 3 1/2 inches so first we need to line up the 1 3/4 inch mark with the top point of the triangle at the same time make sure you have 1/4 inch of seam beyond it. On the bottom of the triangle the 3 1/2 inch and 2 inch mark need to fall on the seams.
When we rotate the block to trim the last two sides the 3 1/2 inch and 2 inch lines are on the outside and once again the point falls on the 1 3/4 inch line with 1/4 inch seam extending beyond. Now we also have the diagonal line on our ruler falling in place on the seam.
Once all of the flying geese units are trimmed we need to join them together in pairs.
At times it helps to use a stilleto tool to hold the seams down. I have also found that lifting my presser foot (with the needle in the down position) as I come to that seam to make sure it is laying flat can also help.
I pressed these seams in opposite directions though I am not happy with the bulk that creates. I tried making a set later with the seams pressed and with careful pinning that did help. It is just so much harder to line up the seams when I do that.
Whichever pressing style you use at this point when you join these units together take your time as there are some pretty bulky seams to go over and it is best to slow down for them.
My version with the seams pressed open can be seen here-make sure to line up the pin on the top and bottom right into the seam if you choose to do this.
Ready for the final seam. I do want to point out that this method is not really good for using directional fabric. You can see how the the writing on the blue fabric will run a different direction on half of the Flying Geese blocks-but I am okay with that here.
A second version of Night Flight.
This is a video I took of some of the geese this winter...this is just a few of them with, some swans in the foreground...in case you would like to see what we experience.
I hope you enjoy making your own Flying Geese. For a pdf version of this tutorial click HERE.
Whew, time to play catch up with the blocks I have missed. I am starting with Carrie Nelson's Block 18-it just looked like fun. It also happened that our son who lives in Colorado at the base of the Rocky Mountains was here for a visit so it seemed fitting as well. The little bear was given to me in celebration of his birth and normally sits on a shelf in my quilt room.
You can find the link for this pattern on her blog by clicking below:
I started with fabric that had been starched and proceeded to cut out all the pieces for this block. I like to have a little extra for trimming Half-square triangles so cut those pieces a little larger than Carrie's directions state.
E and F are cut to 2 1/2 inch squares.
To make unit #1 start with the A and B pieces and join with a quarter inch seam.
Continue adding the C and D pieces-working around the square.
I pressed towards the piece that was just added rather than towards the B square;
just like I do when making a Log Cabin block.
Unit #1 should measure 3 1/2 inches square when done.
Next I made the Half-square triangles-it is the year of the Half-square triangle for me it seems.
I started by drawing a diagonal line on the back of all of the E squares.
Placing an E and F square right sides together I sew 1/4 inch from each side of the drawn line.
These are cut apart on the drawn line and pressed towards the darker side.
Since these squares were cut a little large I need to trim them down to 2 inch squares.
I do this by lining up the diagonal line on my ruler with the diagonal seam line,
trimming two sides then rotating the unit and trimming the next two sides.
Using the Half-square triangles we just made,
join two sets of them together to make two Unit #2's.
The next step is to make the Unit #3's.
This time we need three Half-square-triangles and one G square for each unit.
I chain-pieced in groups of two and pressed the two outer seams towards the outside. I pressed the middle seam the direction it wanted to lay better.
Two Unit # 3's are finished and here you can see how I have pressed them.
Now it is time to put all of the units we have made together.
Starting with Unit #1, add a Unit #2 to each side making sure
the triangles are going in the correct direction.
Lay out the Unit # 3's on the top and bottom making sure they are facing the right direction.
Because of the way I pressed these units the seams nest nicely and I placed two pins to hold everything together where the seams met.
And there we have the finished block!
Now I just need to go back and do the two blocks I missed while we were vacationing-I think there is an alternate too that I would like to try so...
until next time,
For a PDF version of this tutorial click HERE.
Welcome to the site of Debra Davis-a woman who loves the Lord and loves to quilt.
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Sitting at His Feet
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