I am going to use a quick-hourglass method and I like to start with slightly larger squares when making Half-square triangles so have made sime adjustments to the cutting instructions.
A-(cut 4) 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
B-(cut 4) 2 1/4" x 2 1/4"
C-(cut 4) 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"
D-(cut 4) 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"
For thefollowing fabrics used in the hourglass units-do not cut squares into triangles
E-(cut 2) 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"
F-(cut 1) 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"
G-(cut 1) 3 1/2" x 3 1/2"
H-(cut 1) 2 1/2" x 2 1/2"
I began by making the Half-Square Triangles using A and B squares. I think I can do this step in my sleep now. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the A sqaures. Stitch 1/4 inch from each side of the drawn line.
Cut along the line and press towards the dark side.
These get trimmed to 1 1/2" squares
being sure to line up the diagonal line on the ruler with the seam line.
Next I add the C and D squares to the Half-square triangles to make a four-patch unit.
Chain-piecing them together.
I broke the "rules" here and pressed these towards the C and D squares.
The seams, which are pressed in opposite directions will nest together nicely now.
I find that all I need to do is sew so that the seam on top is facing up towards the needle, rather than away, and as I sew the two seams are pushed together nicely without the need for a pin.
I pressed the seams open on these.
At this point these little Four-patch blocks should measure 2 1/2" x 2 1/2"
Now I am going to make the hourglass units. I like how quick this method makes these.
First I draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the F and G squares. The with right sides together I place each on top of an E square.
Just like with the Half-square triangles I stitch 1/4 inch from each side of the line.
These get cut apart and pressed toward the dark side. On the back of the two of the units I once again draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. It is important that your line land right on the tips of those corners.
Next I put two Half-square triangles together-one of each type- matching the seams.
I sew 1/4 inch away from one side of the line and to push those seams together I make sure that the top seam is pointed towards the needle. When I first started doing this method I alwyas put a couple of pins in buthave found they really are not necessary if i remember to have them facing this direction when I sew. Before I sew on the other side of the line I will take a quick check of my work.
That is what I want to see-the seams matching perfectly.
Now I sew down the other side, again with that seam facing up towards my needle.
After cutting apart on the drawn line, I pressed towards one side
and now I can trim these to 2 1/2" x 2 1/2"
It is important to line up the diagonal line on my ruler with the seam. I have also made sure that the mid point of 1 1/4" lands right at the center intersection. The other thing I am going to check for is that the outer edges along the 2 1/2" lines make perfect points of a triangle.
Rotating the block after trimming the first two sides I again line up the lines on my ruler-make sure the 1 1/4" mark is at the center of the block and trim.
Time to add my H square and put all of the pieces together to make the block.
I pressed all of the rows towards the hourglass units. As I sewed the rows together I fanned the seams at the intersections so that the seams lay in opposite directions.
Here is a photo of another fanned seam to give you an idea of what this looks like
as it show up better in this photo.
I love this block! I am even considering making another using this blue square for the center-just that one little change gives it a whole new look.
As promised here are the links to the designers blog posts with their setting ideas.
I am really drawn to two of them and may just need to combine the ideas-time will tell.
I hope you have as much fun with this block as I did-and since I still have more to make I can still say...
Until next time...
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